by Jaime Vazquez for pdxguide.com
January 2008

Bar Convivium 535 NW 16th Ave. Portland, OR 97209 (503) 284-6200

Bar Convivium is a newcomer to the Pearl, located in a half-basement space on the freeway side of the neighborhood. Walking down the stairs just inside the sparse entrance, it feels like a much hipper version of Cheers, where regulars hang out for hours, only in this version, they’re dressed to the nines.

The first thing one sees when entering is the bar, a simple and tasteful area that ends up being the centerpiece of the room. The bottles behind the counter reveal good taste, and it’s clear that Convivium could hold its own against other Pearl martini bars, but instead opts for being a neighborhood hangout. Like satellites, games and activities are strategically placed throughout the space, although not in a way that intrudes on the tables. A shuffleboard table is lined against the wall; the jukebox is tucked away next to the stairs; the pool table is in its own room which would be easily overlooked were it not for a giant sign reading The Pool Vault announcing its existence.

The end result of Bar Convivium’s friendly atmosphere and Pearl-level class is an anytime nightspot that’s the best of both worlds. Even on weeknights, singles and couples keep the place hopping, with some taking board games to their tables, while other carry off fancy, overly sugared drinks to the intimate booths in the corners. The wait staff is eager and attentive, and they seem invested in Convivium’s success, making sincere recommendations, and using “we” as though they’re already a close-knit community. While it can be a little much, since they genuinely recommend everything, it’s a refreshing change from so many of the other dimly lit bars on the west side, where it can be hard to get more than a sneer as you're being overcharged.

The menu offers standard fare, with fries that could hold their own in a fight, and salads that speak to more fine dining inclinations than bar food. Be careful with the drink menu, however, as they don’t do a great job of distinguishing which will be the big froofy numbers and which will be the more laid back choices (hint: ask a server’s advice). And while happy hour is a treat at Bar Convivium, the lights are dim, and the music is surprisingly loud, so hearing your companions can be sometimes be difficult. Intimate conversation is certainly possible, though, it just requires sitting a little closer together.

Bar Convivium could be the bastard child of Bartini and Blue Moon, mixing the poor lighting, high end cocktails, and modern decorating sensibilities of the former with the community, spirit, and kitchen of the latter. While that’s not necessarily a groundbreaking combination, it does make for a much needed hideaway in The Pearl, and hopefully, signals a welcome trend.

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