by Sean Coker for pdxguide.com
August 2007

Dove Vivi 2727 NE Gilsan Portland, OR 503-239-4444

Heading north on southeast Milwaukie Boulevard, my bike screeches to a halt at a red light. There I spot a man wearing tan pants and a khaki shirt huddled in the fetal position, rocking behind a traffic control device.

“Are you alright,” I ask to no response. This time I scream, “Are you alright.” He looks at me with sharp eyes, half asleep half strung out on heroin. He takes a breath before blinking slowly. Those tired eyes say everything: hopelessness, indifference. He wants to sleep, maybe forever.

The light turns green. Wishing I could say some nugget of truth, instead, I say the first thing that comes to mind - "Good luck man," - before peddling north. Destination Dove Vivi, Portland’s newest pizza parlor that isn’t afraid to go crust to crust with any pie in town.

A plywood sign with a white heart signals my arrival. I look around for bike parking and, finding none, lean my bike against the window before walking inside. Soft jazz music crescendos from four speakers hidden behind rattling cookware. Urban minimalism describes the décor, exposed rafters, rows of homemade lights and long wooden benches decorate the interior.

I order a slice of corn pizza ($3.25) and a Hinane Tahiti beer ($3) before sitting down. I sip this refreshing lager trying not to think of anything serious. Flour dusts the dough-scented air and the clatter of silverware obscures the slow jazz beats. My feet rest atop a polished concrete floor as I stare past the deli style cooler at Mason jars filled with spices.

Delane, the owner of Dove Vivi Pizza, brings out my corn pizza and I point to my beer and nod my head. Outside, three tables are scattered on a plot of sidewalk. Across the street is a Plaid Pantry and my thoughts turn to the fact that convenience stores thrive on selling vices: tobacco, alcohol, sugary/salty food and crack baggies. Along the other corner is the brightly colored Pambiche.

My first taste of the sweet corn pizza was interesting and unexpected. The sugary corn and salty cheese bite tickles my palate and brings a smile to a mouth accustomed to marginal pizza. Two types of mozzarella are used and a hint of chives parallels the balsamic vinegar and red onions. A thick, Chicago-style cornmeal crust further compliments the concoction.

This slice doesn’t even feel like pizza - instead this a full meal on a triangle of dough. The deep-dish crust means this pie is as enjoyable with a fork as it is by hand. Interestingly, Dove Vivi serves half pies ($10.50) that are “par baked to finish at home.” A full pie runs $20.00.

Wanting to eat there again, I called Eric (see Garbage Beach) and he agreed to meet me there I tried a special: the prosciutto slice ($3.75) and fell in love with the food’s complex taste; the salty meat, tangy sauce and the way bits of cornmeal stick to your lower lip. Wanting to broaden my horizons, I also got a mixed-greens salad ($3.50), which left me full enough to not eat any bar food the rest of the night.

Leaving behind a table full off empty Tahiti beers glasses, we left. The stop signs were blurry; it was the kind of night where you drink to forget the troubles of the day and hope you don't ride your bike into a chain link fence.

The opinions expressed within are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of pdxguide.com or The Columbian Publishing Co.