by Jaime Vazquez for pdxguide.com
January 2008

Journeys Wine Bar 7771 SW Capitol Hwy. Portland, OR 97219 (503) 245-4573

Wine bars are a funny thing, because in order to succeed, they need to mimic the sophistication of a full winery while simultaneously making themselves accessible to the layman. Admittedly, I know very little about wine, so I prefer to take friends with me with more sophisticated palettes when going, and at the same time, I also try and remember that a wine bar is only as good as their explanations. Journeys, located in the heart of the southwest’s Multnomah Village, has a tremendous selection and definitely passes the credibility test; however, first-timers and newcomers are probably better suited to restaurants with extensive wine lists as an introduction to fine wines.

Journeys is on the stretch of Capitol Highway that anchors Multnomah Village with mom-and-pop shops, recessed a bit from the street in what used to be a large house. The porch and front lawn area hint at outdoor seating, but on a cold and rainy evening it’s hard to tell. Walking in, the doors nearly bump into the bar, a six-seater more cramped than inviting, and a small gaggle of tables is corralled on the left. Wine bars are supposed to feel intimate, it’s true, but in this case, things are cluttered to the point of feeling stacked up—for example ,getting in and out of the chairs at the table is always an ordeal that involves at least two other people getting up to make room.

After studying the list for some time, I found myself utterly confused, worried that I would sound like a clod even attempting pronunciations or make some wine faux pas, ordering the grocery-store level wine and thinking it was classy. My friend spent some time explaining a few of the wines to me, why people liked them, and which ones were likely to be light or dark. My friend—who happens to work at one of the wineries in Newberg—took some interest in their Ports, wondering aloud what the differences were between the different varieties.

The bartender came by to take orders, a stout man covered with tattoos wearing shorts; for a moment I smiled at the thought that only at a Portland wine bar would the staff be dressed more casually than the patrons. A friendly guy, he spoke two decibels above everyone else in the room, giving recommendations that were friendly, hearty, and entirely unspecific. After probing for adjectives, I gave up, ordered what my friend recommended (a Riesling that was as citric as my friend had predicted), and my friend inquired about the available Ports. “Oh yeah, we have some really good ones,” was about as much as we could glean, which was frustrating, because it was clear that there was a lot of expertise that was getting lost in translation. (The Port she got ended up being outstanding, so despite the confusion, I found myself mentally noting the drink quality again and again.)

Past the main room, there are two smaller rooms in what might have originally been a dining room and a breakfast nook. The books, shelves of wine, and cozy couches give the rooms more of a coffee-shop feel, although a larger table in one of the rooms seems to indicate that it’s for large parties only. The back spaces are intimate, and while there are light foods available on the menu, the seating is better suited to nightcaps than an entire evening out.

Journeys offers the opportunity to step inside the wine enthusiast’s world, with outstanding examples of fine local wine and the perfect cozy environment for enjoyment—just make sure to bring your own expert.

The opinions expressed within are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of pdxguide.com or The Columbian Publishing Co.